There are many different types of pleated ruffles, and many ways to make them. Below you will find examples of three garments all pleated in the same style, yet with very different looks.   In this post I will discuss the three basic elements of rectangular shaped ruffles: fullness, stiffness and hems. Fullness of the Pleating By fullness of the pleat I am referring to the amount of fabric that is used in one yard of pleated fabric....

This post is a culmination of the basic pleating principles I covered in the last 3 blog posts. The importance of understanding this post is to help you identify the different types of pleating used by others and how they incorporate pleating into their designs.  In addition, if you are a fashion designer, it will help you communicate your ideas to pleating contractors such as ourselves. Now that you know the 3 basic components of pleating...

There is one more panel shape you need to understand regarding the pleating of fabric. This shape is sort of an amalgamation between the square panel and the half circle panel I discussed in last week’s post.  It is a curved straight panel.  (See picture below.)       I know what you’re thinking…WHAT???? Allow me to explain. If you take a square or rectangular panel and fold it slightly deeper(or more) along...

This is the second post in a series of posts on fundamental pleating concepts.  I would recommend reading The ABC’s of Pleating prior to this post. This post will discuss the two basic panel shapes you need to understand if you are a designer or a patternmaker.  By panel, I mean a distinct shape of fabric.  For the purposes of pleating, panels can be either semi-circles or squares/rectangles.  (For you geeks out there that like...

The purpose of this post is to break down and distill the components of pleating to its basic building blocks.  First, I want to preface this post by explaining that when I say pleating I am referring to the “systematic folding” of fabric and not more organic methods like shibori or fabric crushing. After speaking with several clients I’ve realized that I need to undercut the topics in these blog posts even more before I can...

This post applies mainly to chiffon and satin charmeuse fabrics that have more of a stretch on the bias whether pleated or not. Once in a while you may find that you don’t have enough fabric to cut your skirt, especially if you are not using our Bias Circle Skirt Fabric Calculator! Or you might have some extra fabric laying around and you want to use for a new sample. You lay it out on the cutting table only to discover you are just an...