First off I want to point out this is NOT an example of our pleating service A customer brought this skirt because it was a sample that was pleated overseas. Obviously we were shocked at the poor quality of the pleating. We were even more surprised that it was not so obvious to our client. So that inspired a topic to blog about. There will be many more posts regarding this subject I will blog about as I come across then in the future.
The biggest problem with the pleating of this skirt is the curling that occurs at the side seems. If you look at each side you can see the pleats twisting towards the front. The second issue is towards the waist band of the skirt. The pleating is almost completely pulled open. Not only is that aesthetically unattractive but it contributes to the curling of the pleating at the hem of the skirt. Since this is a bias skirt much attention must be given to the grain-line of the fabric. In addition the longer the skirt is, the more prominent the curling. Another aspect that effects the quality of pleating is the characteristics of fabric. This skirt is chiffon which is the least forgiving type of fabric, especially if the chiffon is very elastic. Fabrics that are rigid like taffetas are less likely to create that curling effect.
So, now that we have pointed out these defects, the next question is how did this skirt get to look so bad. First, it was cut incorrectly, second it was pleated incorrectly and third it was stitched incorrectly. So how do you prevent this from happening. Well the short answer is, send us your fabric and we will pleat it correctly for you. We will tell you all of the considerations you will need to think about for your fabric in reference to the type of pleating you need. If that answer is not good enough for you then I have good news. In future posts I will address the proper cutting of pleated bais skirts and the proper stitching of pleating as well. As far as the proper pleating techniques…sorry, can’t give away the family secrets. I’m sure you understand
Below is another example of poor quality pleating. This pic was taken in a major name brand store. Notice how the pleats are curving around the hem…for such a short skirt to curve that much is bad. That is major off grain. Also notice right below the waistband…again the pleats are almost pulled open. Someone needs to find that pleater and kick him the b&tt.