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Three Methods Used to Pleat Fabric

There are three basic methods used to pleat fabric: hand, pattern and machine. These methods can be used individually or they can be combined in various methods to yield different result and textures.

1. Hand Pleating – This method would encompass folding a piece of fabric, pleat by pleat as well as other hand techniques like shibori which employs the use of ropes to bind and compress fabric.

Hand pleating, fold by fold, becomes much easier with tartans, plaids or striped fabrics since the repeat in fabric is used as a guide to assist in the folding.

 

Pleated tartan fabric

Image courtesy of CMStewartWrite.

 

Today, this process of hand pleating is still practical but only in certain situations. Below is an example of pleating being draped on a dress form for a particular style. This is most common during the designing process when a designer is experimenting and draping on a form. If the dress will be duplicated, a special pattern can be created to speed up the process during production.

 

pleating on a dress form

Image above courtesy of Esayel

 

When the bodice of a dress is pleated and very contoured around the body, a seamstress will pin the pleats one by one to the dress form with a piece of bias fabric. The side pleated bodice (below) is an example of difficult hand pleating and cannot be duplicated by machine or pattern pleating.

hand side pleated bodice on a dress form

 Image above courtesy of Nasya.

 

2. Pattern Pleating – This method of pleating employs the use of a cardboard pattern or a tool referred to as a “pleaters board.”  Pleating boards are still used and sold today but mainly for the home sewer. Fabric is stuffed into spaces on and then pressed with a steam iron.

Below is an example of a DIY pleaters board (For instructions how to make one visit Lex).  They are fairly simple to make but can be rather limited in use. For smaller pieces or trimmings, I can understand their use but for larger projects like skirts or dresses, they can be very cumbersome. If you are not very accurate, you can start pleating the fabric off the grain. When that happens your seams will be very difficult to sew from puckering and your pleats can start to curl. If you  are the type of person who wants to do everything yourself then my advice is to go for it.  However, the pleat you will make with a pleater board is so basic yet difficult, it would be easier to bring us your fabric and we’ll pleat it for around $10 dollars per yard (depending on the fabric).

 

pleaters board

Image above courtesy of Lex.

 

Today the majority of professional pleating is done with the use of large pleating patterns, spanning up to 4 yards in length. Some of the more complex patterns can take several months to complete before it is ready to pleat fabric. Certain types of irregular pleating can only be done with the use of a pattern. For example, sunburst and combination pleating have to be done with the use of a pattern. Below is an example of an accordion and herringbone (or chevron) combination pleating pattern.

 

accordion and chevron combo pleating, combination pleating pattern, herringbone pleating pattern by the yard

 

3. Machine Pleating – There are several different ways that these machines are built to accomplish the task of pleating. The machines we use at our factory have long blades that pinch the fabric across the entire width and then folds it. Generally speaking, machine pleating is the least expensive when making simple pleats like side pleats, box pleats or crystal pleats because they require less labor than other pleats. Another advantage to machine pleating is that the entire roll of fabric can be pleated and used for a variety of applications. There are other couture type pleats that we make by machine as well. These higher end pleats are usually a combination of two or all of the processes just described. The possibilities of mixing different pleating techniques are virtually infinite, and experimenting with them is something we love to do.

 

pleating machine, karl rabofsky, rabo64, international pleating

Above: Picture of my father, Leon, calibrating his baby :-)

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15 Responses to Three Methods Used to Pleat Fabric

  1. CMStewart July 6, 2012 at 2:28 am #

    Thank you for the link-back! Great pleating information, now I know where to go for more.

    • Pauline Eikel March 23, 2013 at 10:59 pm #

      I am trying to find out how to make minute pleats in fabric I wish to dye and use for making “silk” flowers. I am learning to make the flowers and have seen some fabric with extremely tiny pleats but no one seems to know where to buy any of it or how to make it. I hope you can point me in the right direction. I have heard of a home pleating machine but the lady teaching me said she has one & used it to make a very small amount of fabric for one flower but she broke about 7 needles in her machine and does not want to try again. She seems to think the machine is nothing but trouble so I don’t know what to do. If you make the fabric or know of someone who does I would appreciate the information or if you can tell me where to buy a machine & make it myself – I would appreciate that. Pauline Eikel

      • George April 1, 2013 at 8:57 pm #

        Yes we make it. Give us a call or check out our store on etsy.

        • luzmi May 19, 2013 at 12:43 pm #

          I would like to know a place where they have the service to pleat some fabric

          Thank you

          • George K June 3, 2013 at 9:51 pm #

            We do :-)

        • luzmi May 19, 2013 at 12:45 pm #

          May I have your phone number please? Do you live in Mass?

  2. Elle July 6, 2012 at 4:52 am #

    I just jumped here from ShoptheGarmentDistrict. What a treat–a fabulous combination of skill, creativty and appreciation for beauty. You’ve provided so much fuel for imagination. Thank you!

  3. Jane Hamill July 6, 2012 at 5:48 pm #

    This is terrific! I will share this with designers I work with. Thanks for posting!

  4. Jackie July 6, 2012 at 6:32 pm #

    Thanks for this post! While in NYC a few weeks ago I bought several yards of pleated fabric that has an amazing block-type of pleat pattern. I’ve never sewn with this type of fabric and need help with how to handle it and suitable gatment patterns. It is also reversible. Any help would be appreciated!

  5. Lawal GBade November 1, 2012 at 8:49 am #

    I want to know more about pleating methods

    • George December 18, 2012 at 3:45 am #

      What would you like to know?

  6. Lisa Tortorici May 25, 2013 at 2:08 pm #

    Hey there,
    I am making my wedding dress using my sisters dress and need to match the 6″‘ crystal pleating. How do I go about that? I cant find it anywhere to purchase ready made. Lisa T.

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