For nearly a century, International Pleating has concentrated on the art of textile pleating and fabric texturizing. There are several methods used for professional pleating. The two most prevalent we use are machine and pattern pleating. Machine pleating is a process whereby fabric by the roll is fed into a machine that systematically folds it. The machines we use are the most precise pleating machines in the world that are manufactured in Germany. We are the only pleaters in the United States to possess such machines.
The types of machine pleating we offer are:
- Side/knife pleat
- Box pleat
- Fortuny and antique Fortuny
- Crystal pleating
- Bamboo pleating
- Distressed pleat
- Mushroom pleat
- and French Accordion
Download our free ebook for examples of How to Use Machine Pleating.
The second most common method we use is pattern pleating; also referred to as “hand” or “table” pleating. This processes is done by placing fabric in a mold then exposing to steam. This type of pleating is usually done for specific results. It is pleated by the panel at various lengths, usually between 1 to 4 yards.
The types of pattern pleating are:
- Sunburst Accordion and Side pleat
- Box pleat (larger than 1in.)
- Side pleat (larger than 1in.)
- Herringbone pleat
Another service that we provide is fabric fusing. This process is beneficial to pleated as well as non-pleated fabrics. Fusing adds body to plain fabrics and increases stability in pleated fabrics. Fused pleating can significantly simplify the sewing process when used in the proper circumstances. This process is also used with suiting in wool boucle and for interfacing. Our machinery gives us the ability to fuse accurately on the roll or in precut fabric blocks.
TECHNICAL DESIGN, DEBUGGING & PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
This is an area that we find to be the greatest lack of knowledge in the industry. Many of the “standard” assumptions made in pattern making and grading do not apply to pleated garments. I can not express to you strong enough how many times we see huge costly errors and colossal wastes in labor due to a lack of knowledge in dealing with pleating. Many of our clients consult with us to verify there patterns are production ready or before the sampling process. On many occasions we have saved labor and fabric costs by 50% .
As mention earlier, pleated pattern grading is a service we offer since many of the computerized systems are not programed to do so. Depending on the garment style and type of pleat there are three typical ways we accomplish this. First is to size the inlay fabric of the pleats different though the size range. A box pleat would be a good example of this. The second way would be to add more pleats as the sizing increases. This would be ideal for a smaller knife pleat. The last method would be cutting a different shape/size of fabric. This method would be used for a sunburst pleating.
SHRINKAGE CONTROL & FABRIC FIXAGE
Fabric shrinkage is a process in which the fabric becomes smaller (less surface area). This process is performed to “fix” the fabric before the garment is cut in order to prevent unwanted shrinkage during the garment construction process.
Machine smocking or honeycomb smocking by hand.